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Cut for a colder winter

Cloth bought in Coimbatore, cut to a pattern block made for Berlin. The mismatch is not a mistake.

Devika Rao · 10 September 2026 · 4 min read

Cut for a colder winter

A South Asian cotton behaves differently in a northern European winter. It is thinner than the climate wants and better than the climate deserves, and the studio working with both has decided not to resolve the tension.

Two sets of assumptions

A pattern block carries a climate inside it: sleeve length, layering allowance, where the weight sits. Putting one cloth tradition into another block produces a garment that is legibly from two places at once.

The alternative was worse

The obvious fix is to source a heavier cloth locally. The studio tried it for one season and describes the result as correct and uninteresting.

Written by Devika Rao

Former atelier production manager. Writes about how clothes are actually made.

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